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Lovely rich straw colour from centre to rim – it’s erudite and refined. It has a tease of citrus, and a hint of dried-herbs with fine ribs flowing from an acid spine. Wild-yeast nuances smooth any edges and amplify the often quieter mineral-driven characters. Phil Kerney’s winemaking prowess is on full display here, for this wine challenges every stereotype and wins the argument. Its charm lies more in what it’s not saying, than what it is. To compare it to Sancerre would imply that it’s trying to replicate it but it is not. It is simply expressing Orange Sauvignon Blanc in the best way.